Storm Season Tree Preparation Checklist

What this guide covers: How to assess, prepare, and protect your trees before Austin’s two major storm windows. This is not a landscaping checklist. It is a structural risk management guide built specifically for Central Texas soils, species, and storm behavior — including the Oak Wilt timing window that most general guides ignore entirely.

Austin storms do not negotiate. A derecho can travel from San Angelo to Travis County in under two hours. A late-afternoon squall line can produce 70 mph straight-line winds, quarter-inch hail, and two inches of rain before your phone receives the NWS alert. The margin for last-minute tree work is zero.

Storm season tree preparation is structural risk management. The difference between a Live Oak that survives a 70 mph wind event and one that shears off over a bedroom is almost entirely determined by decisions made in the four to six weeks before the storm arrives — not during it.

This checklist is written for Austin’s specific conditions: Blackland Prairie clay soils that shrink and swell with drought cycles, Hill Country limestone outcroppings, high summer humidity followed by extended drought, and a canopy dominated by Live Oaks, Cedar Elms, Pecans, and Bald Cypresses — each with its own predictable failure profile in high winds.

Work through this list sequentially. The order reflects risk priority, not convenience.

What Is Storm Season in Austin, Texas?

Austin sits at the intersection of two distinct severe weather windows, and understanding the timing of each changes how and when you prepare your trees.

Storm Season Definition (Central Texas) Austin has two primary storm windows: a spring severe weather season (March through June) dominated by thunderstorms, hail, and straight-line winds, and a late summer/early fall season (August through October) driven by tropical moisture incursions and flash flooding. The spring window carries the highest structural risk for trees. The late-summer window amplifies risk in trees already weakened by drought stress.

This distinction matters for tree work timing. Pruning, cabling, and root zone preparation done before the spring window requires completion by late February. A secondary deadwood inspection before the August–October window is best completed in July, before peak heat further stresses root systems already compromised by summer drought.

Step 1: Identify Which Trees Carry the Highest Storm Risk

Not every tree on your property carries equal risk. Tree failure during wind events follows predictable patterns tied to species, structure, and location. Start your preparation by triaging which trees need attention before you touch a single branch.

Species-Specific Failure Profiles for Austin Trees

Austin’s urban canopy is not random. Certain species dominate, and each has a documented failure pattern in high-wind events. Know your trees before you assess them.

Live Oak

Quercus fusiformis

Moderate Risk — Structure Dependent

Austin’s most common canopy tree. Dense, spreading crowns create high wind resistance. Live oaks are structurally strong when grown correctly, but co-dominant stems — two trunks of roughly equal diameter splitting from a single base — are a primary failure point in derecho-level winds. Look specifically for included bark: bark that is pinched or buried in the crotch between two stems rather than folding outward. Included bark junctions fail before the root system moves. This is a pre-storm cabling or structural pruning candidate.

Cedar Elm

Ulmus crassifolia

High Risk — Deadwood Priority

Brittle wood with a documented tendency toward sudden branch drop even on calm days. Cedar elms accumulate interior deadwood rapidly. Pre-storm deadwood removal in cedar elms is non-negotiable — their dead branches are among the most common causes of storm-related property damage in Austin neighborhoods.

Pecan

Carya illinoinensis

High Risk — End Weight and Deadwood

Texas’s state tree grows large fast and develops significant interior deadwood as it matures. Pecans develop heavy, horizontal scaffold branches that act as sails in high winds. End-weight reduction — removing weight from the outer portions of long horizontal limbs — is the primary intervention before storm season for mature pecans. Do not ignore the interior deadwood either; pecan canopies often hide dead branch stubs well above the visible sightline from the ground.

Arizona Ash

Fraxinus velutina

High Risk — Structural Decline

Common in older Austin neighborhoods built in the 1960s–1980s. Fast-growing and weak-wooded, with many mature specimens already affected by Ash Decline. Ash trees in Austin should be assessed for structural integrity before every storm season. A visually full-canopied ash may be severely compromised internally.

Bald Cypress

Taxodium distichum

Lower Risk — Root Zone Focus

Flood-tolerant and comparatively wind-resistant. However, inspect the root flare annually. Bald cypresses planted in urban hardscape environments often have root flares buried under impermeable surfaces that concentrate runoff against the trunk base, accelerating basal decay over time. Ensure the root flare is visible and the surrounding grade drains away from the trunk.

How to Map Your Trees Against Risk Targets

A structurally sound tree on the far edge of your property may be lower priority than a smaller, weaker tree positioned directly over your roofline. Tree risk is not determined by tree condition alone — it is the intersection of tree condition and failure zone.

Before any assessment, draw or mentally map each tree’s failure zone: the area that would be impacted if the tree failed at the base, at major scaffold branches, or at the crown. Then identify the targets in that zone: your home’s roofline, HVAC units, parked vehicles, utility lines, neighboring structures, and areas where people regularly stand or sit.

How far from my house does a tree need to be before it’s not a storm risk?

There is no safe distance rule. A 60-foot tree can fail at any point from the base to the crown tips, and individual branches can travel considerable distances in high winds. The question is not distance — it is whether the tree’s failure zone overlaps with a target. A tree 50 feet from your home with a branch growing toward the roofline may be higher priority than a tree 20 feet away that fails into open lawn.

Step 2: Conduct a Pre-Storm Structural Assessment

A pre-storm structural assessment is not a casual walk around the yard. It is a systematic inspection of specific failure indicators at specific parts of the tree, evaluated from the ground up in a defined sequence. Knowing how arborists assess tree health will help you understand what to look for — and when to call one in.

Root Zone Assessment

Begin at the ground, not the canopy. Austin’s Blackland Prairie soils are expansive — they shrink dramatically during drought and swell after rain. This repeated movement destabilizes root systems over time in ways that are not visible from above.

• Look for soil heaving or cracking in a circular arc pattern around the trunk base. This indicates root plate movement — the structural root plate has shifted.
• Check for surface roots that have been cut or severed by mowing, edging, or recent hardscape installation. The structural root zone extends outward from the trunk at a distance roughly equal to the trunk’s diameter at breast height multiplied by 18. Severed roots within this zone reduce anchoring measurably.
• Probe the soil 8–12 inches from the trunk. If it is powder-dry after recent drought, root-soil contact has diminished. Watering the root zone two to three weeks before storm season restores mechanical cohesion between roots and soil.

Root Flare and Trunk Base Assessment

What Is the Root Flare? The root flare (also called the trunk flare or root collar) is the zone where the trunk transitions into the root system at ground level. On a healthy tree, this zone visibly widens as it meets the soil. If your tree looks like a telephone pole going straight into the ground with no visible flare, the flare is buried — under excess soil, mulch buildup, or hardscape. Buried flares cause basal decay that develops invisibly for years before the first external symptoms appear.

• Confirm the root flare is visible. If not, excavate carefully by hand or with compressed air to expose it.
• Press firmly on the bark at the base with your thumb. Any sponginess, hollow sound when tapped with a mallet, or soft give under pressure indicates internal decay. Investigate further — or call a certified arborist immediately.
• Look for fungal conks (shelf mushrooms growing from the base or lower trunk). These indicate advanced internal wood decay. This is an emergency finding, not a cosmetic issue.
• Check for girdling roots — roots that grow around the trunk circumference rather than radiating outward. Girdling roots constrict vascular tissue and reduce structural anchoring at the base.

Trunk Assessment

• Vertical cracks running parallel to the trunk grain are generally less structurally significant than horizontal or diagonal cracks, which indicate shear stress across wood fibers.
• Cankers — elongated dead bark areas surrounded by living tissue — indicate fungal or bacterial infection. They weaken the trunk at the specific point they occupy.
• A lean that has developed or changed angle noticeably within the past season (not the tree’s natural long-term growth direction) is an emergency finding. Acute lean changes indicate root plate failure on the windward side.

For more on what a cracked or splitting trunk means structurally, see our guide on cracked tree trunks and what to do about them.

Crown Assessment

• Identify all dead branches, particularly in the upper crown. Dead branches become projectiles in storms. Their weight and fragility make them the most common cause of storm-related structural damage in Austin.
• Assess the live crown ratio: the percentage of the tree’s total height occupied by living, leafed-out foliage. A deciduous tree with less than 40% live crown ratio is in serious structural decline, regardless of how full the remaining foliage looks.
• Look for epicormic sprouting — clusters of small, thin shoots growing from the trunk or from the base of large scaffold limbs. This is a stress response, not healthy new growth. It signals the tree is diverting resources to keep itself alive.
• Check scaffold limbs for bark inclusions at their attachment points. Well-attached limbs show a visible branch bark ridge — a raised ridge of bark at the top of the junction. Absent or buried ridges indicate a weak attachment angle.

What does it mean when a tree has mushrooms growing at the base?

Fungal conks or shelf mushrooms growing from the base or lower trunk are indicators of advanced internal wood decay. The visible mushroom is the fruiting body of fungi that have been consuming the tree’s interior wood — often for years before external signs appear. This finding does not automatically mean the tree must be removed, but it requires immediate professional assessment. The extent of internal decay determines whether the tree is safe to retain. Do not delay this assessment if you see basal fungal growth before storm season.

Step 3: Pre-Storm Pruning — What to Cut and Why

Pre-storm pruning is not aesthetic. Every cut has a defined structural purpose. If a tree company cannot explain the structural reason for each cut they propose, stop the conversation.

Understanding the difference between tree trimming and tree pruning matters here — pruning is targeted and structural, not just cosmetic shaping.

Deadwood Removal

Remove all dead, dying, and diseased branches before storm season without exception. A four-inch dead branch at 30 feet of elevation carries enough kinetic energy in a 60 mph wind to penetrate a roof deck. In Austin’s hail-prone spring season, dead branches fracture under hail impact and become secondary projectiles during the storm event itself.

How to identify deadwood: In Live Oaks and Cedar Elms, dead branches retain brown, dead foliage through winter when surrounding branches have leafed out. Dead branches show flaking, absent, or deeply furrowed bark with no green layer beneath. They produce no new growth at branch tips in spring. Branch tips on dead wood often display exposed bleached or whitened wood where bark has separated.

Co-Dominant Stem Management

Co-dominant stems with included bark are one of the most reliably documented failure points in Central Texas trees during storm events. Two trunks of roughly equal diameter competing from a single base, with bark pinched between them at the junction, will eventually fail — and storm conditions accelerate the timeline dramatically.

Two interventions exist. The first is selective removal of one co-dominant stem, performed when the tree’s structure and aesthetic value can sustain it. The second is installation of a dynamic cabling system — a flexible steel cable installed at approximately two-thirds of the tree’s height that allows natural movement while limiting the angle of stem separation under wind loading. Dynamic cables do not prevent all failure, but they reduce it significantly in trees that are otherwise candidates for retention.

⚠ Do not install tree cables yourself. Incorrect attachment points, hardware selection, or installation tension can accelerate the failure they are designed to prevent. Cabling requires assessment by an ISA Certified Arborist. See our overview of tree cabling services in Austin to understand what this involves.

Understanding the Three Types of Crown Work

These are not interchangeable terms. Know what you are requesting before any tree crew begins work on your property.

⚠ If a tree company recommends lion’s tailing or “topping” your trees, do not hire them. Both practices leave trees structurally weakened and significantly more susceptible to storm failure. Tree topping versus proper trimming explains why in detail.

Clearance Pruning Standards

Branches should maintain a minimum 10-foot clearance from your roofline. Branches in contact with your roof cause three compounding problems: physical abrasion damage during storms, moisture retention that accelerates wood rot at the contact point, and a direct access pathway for carpenter ants and wood-boring insects into your structure.

For utility line clearance, do not prune within 10 feet of power lines yourself. Contact Austin Energy’s Vegetation Management program. They coordinate line-clearance pruning at no cost to the homeowner for trees posing a direct hazard to distribution lines. For trees near power lines, see our guide on what homeowners need to know about trees near power lines.

Step 4: Soil and Root Zone Preparation

A structurally pruned tree on a compromised root system is still a high-risk tree. Root zone health determines how effectively roots anchor the tree during wind loading — and Austin’s soils create specific root zone challenges that most storm prep guides do not address.

Pre-Storm Deep Root Watering

Austin’s drought cycles cause Blackland clay soils to shrink significantly — sometimes cracking two to four inches wide in extended dry periods. When soil shrinks away from roots, the tree loses mechanical connection to the ground. Even a structurally sound, well-pruned tree is more likely to uproot when its root system is sitting in dessicated, contracted clay with poor soil-root contact.

Two to three weeks before the spring storm window, conduct deep root watering: slow water application at the drip line — the outer edge of the canopy — to a depth of 18–24 inches. Use a soil needle injector or a slow drip placed at multiple points around the drip line over four to six hours. This re-expands the clay and restores root-soil contact before storm loading begins.

Soil Compaction in the Critical Root Zone

What Is the Critical Root Zone? The critical root zone (CRZ) is the area around a tree where the structural and feeder roots are concentrated. A commonly used formula: one foot of radial distance for every inch of trunk diameter at breast height. A tree with a 12-inch diameter trunk has a critical root zone extending approximately 12 feet from the trunk in all directions. Compaction, paving, or root cutting within the CRZ directly affects both tree health and structural stability.

Compacted soil reduces oxygen availability, which progressively kills fine feeder roots. Trees with compacted root zones often look visually healthy for years because the structural roots are long-lived — but the biological root system that maintains the tree’s health and anchoring is deteriorating beneath the surface.

If vehicles, construction equipment, or heavy foot traffic have operated over your tree’s root zone in the past three years, have a certified arborist perform vertical mulching or radial aeration before storm season. These techniques fracture compaction layers and restore oxygen and water movement through the critical root zone.

Mulching the Root Zone Correctly

Apply 3–4 inches of organic wood chip mulch from six inches away from the trunk out to the drip line. This retains soil moisture, moderates temperature extremes at the root zone, and suppresses competing grass that competes with the tree’s fine root system for water and nutrients.

⚠ Volcano mulching — piling mulch against the trunk — is one of the most common tree health mistakes in Austin yards. It creates the same buried root flare problem described above: sustained moisture against the bark accelerates basal decay and creates ideal conditions for fungal infection. Keep mulch six inches away from the trunk at minimum.

Step 5: Document Your Trees Before Storm Season

This step is skipped by almost every homeowner. It will matter significantly if you file a property insurance claim after a storm event, or if a neighbor’s property is damaged and liability questions arise.

Pre-Storm Photographic Documentation

Photograph every significant tree on your property before storm season, including:

• Full canopy shots from multiple angles (minimum four cardinal directions)
• Close-up photos of the trunk base and visible root flare
• Any existing cracks, cavities, or areas of visible decay, with something for scale
• Branch structure photos showing the major scaffold architecture
• The relationship between each major tree and nearby structures, with distances visible

Date-stamp all photos and store them in cloud storage. Documentation that your trees were assessed, maintained, and in sound condition before a storm event is directly relevant to insurance claims and to any liability determination if your tree damages a neighbor’s property.

Maintaining an Arborist Report on File

If you have had any work done by an ISA Certified Arborist in the past two years, retain the written assessment report. These reports document that you exercised reasonable care in tree maintenance — a key factor in liability determinations after storm damage to neighboring properties.

Step 6: When Tree Removal Is the Correct Answer

Preservation is the goal. Removal is sometimes the correct outcome of an honest risk assessment. These are not always the same conclusion, and homeowners deserve a clear framework for deciding which applies.

Many trees that appear hazardous can be saved with proper care. Understanding which trees are genuinely dangerous versus which can be treated prevents both unnecessary removals and dangerous delays.

Indicators That Warrant Professional Removal Evaluation

The following are not automatic removal triggers — they are indicators that require honest, in-person professional assessment before the next storm season:

• Advanced basal decay affecting more than 30% of the trunk circumference at the base
• A recent, sudden change in lean angle of more than 2–3 degrees within a single season
• Root plate upheaval visible on the windward side of the tree
• Multiple co-dominant stems with included bark positioned directly over primary target zones (rooflines, occupied rooms)
• More than 50% dieback of the living crown with no reversible or treatable cause identified
• Previous topping that left a structurally compromised crown with multiple internal decay columns

How do I know if my leaning tree is dangerous before a storm?

Not all leaning trees are hazards. Many trees develop a natural lean over decades as part of their growth response to light, prevailing wind, or adjacent structures. The key question is whether the lean is recent and acute — a change that has occurred within the past growing season or year — or whether it is a long-established growth pattern that has been consistent for years. A sudden lean change is an emergency finding. A long-established lean in a structurally healthy tree may not require intervention. See our full guide on whether a leaning tree is dangerous for the complete risk assessment framework.

Removal is a permanent decision. If an arborist recommends removing a tree with significant sentimental or monetary value, request a second opinion from a separate ISA Certified Arborist. Data-driven assessment tools — resistograph decay mapping and sonic tomography — can objectively measure internal decay columns when visual inspection is inconclusive.

Wondering when a tree has reached the point where removal is unavoidable? Our guide on when a tree needs to be removed walks through the decision process in detail.

Step 7: The Oak Wilt Timing Window — Austin’s Critical Pruning Calendar

Most storm preparation guides written for general audiences miss this entirely. In Austin, Oak Wilt timing is not optional information — it is a mandatory constraint on when you can safely prune oak trees.

What Is Oak Wilt? Oak Wilt is a vascular disease caused by the fungus Bretziella fagacearum. It is one of the most destructive tree diseases in the United States and is endemic to Central Texas. It kills Live Oaks, Spanish Oaks, and other red oak group species. It spreads via two mechanisms: underground root grafts between adjacent trees, and sap-feeding nitidulid beetles that carry spores between trees. Fresh pruning wounds attract these beetles — which is why pruning timing directly affects Oak Wilt transmission risk.

Do not prune oak trees in Austin between February 1 and June 30 unless a branch presents an immediate, active hazard. The sap-feeding beetles that vector Oak Wilt spores are most active during this window. Fresh pruning cuts produce volatile compounds that attract these beetles at measurable distances.

If you must prune an oak during this period due to storm damage, apply latex-based wound sealant or pruning paint to the cut surface immediately — within 15 minutes of the cut. This is one of the few situations where wound sealant is not only acceptable but actively recommended by Texas A&M Forest Service guidelines.

July 1 – January 31 (Safe Window)

Preferred period for structural oak pruning, deadwood removal, crown thinning, and co-dominant stem work. Beetle activity is lowest. Wounds have time to begin compartmentalization before spring growth flush. Schedule your storm prep oak work during this window.

February 1 – June 30 (High-Risk Window)

Avoid oak pruning if at all possible. If storm damage occurs in this window and requires pruning, apply wound sealant immediately. Do not leave fresh cuts unsealed overnight.

Complete Storm Preparation Timeline for Austin Homeowners

Post-Storm Response: What to Do in the 24–72 Hours After a Storm

Storm preparation does not end when the storm passes. What you do in the first three days after a major weather event affects whether damaged trees survive and whether your liability exposure is managed correctly.

Immediate Safety — First Two Hours

• Do not approach any tree in contact with a downed power line. Call 911 and Austin Energy. Treat all downed lines as live until confirmed otherwise by a utility technician. The ground surrounding a downed line can be energized.
• Do not enter any structure that has been struck by a falling tree until a structural inspection has been completed.
• Before moving under any tree, look up and assess for hanging broken branches — called “widow makers” in arborist terminology. A branch that is partially fractured and caught in the canopy is under spring tension and can drop without warning at any moment.

For a complete breakdown of what to do immediately after tree damage, see what to do when a tree falls after a storm. If you are unsure whether a partially fallen tree can be salvaged, our guide on whether a partially fallen tree can be saved covers the decision criteria.

Damage Triage — 24 to 48 Hours

• Broken branches still attached: Prune cleanly back to the branch collar as soon as possible. Hanging broken branches cause additional damage in subsequent wind events and create large, ragged wound surfaces prone to decay and insect colonization.
• Trees with stripped bark: Do not apply wound sealant to bark wounds on species other than oaks. This is outdated practice for non-oak species and traps moisture against the wound. Clean wound edges to a smooth oval and allow the tree to compartmentalize naturally.
• Partially uprooted trees: If the root plate is less than 45 degrees from vertical and the tree is not in a hazard position, professional re-righting and staking within 24–48 hours can sometimes save the tree. After 72 hours without intervention, root desiccation makes recovery increasingly unlikely.

Understanding the difference between emergency tree removal versus scheduled removal helps you make the right call quickly — and understand why emergency removal costs more than pre-planned work.

Recovery Pruning — Two to Four Weeks Post-Storm

Wait two to four weeks after a major storm event before conducting recovery pruning on damaged but surviving trees. Trees mobilize stored carbohydrate reserves to respond to fresh wounds and defoliation. Aggressive pruning immediately after storm stress compounds the energy demand and can push a marginally surviving tree into decline. Allow the tree to stabilize first, then assess what structural pruning is necessary to support long-term recovery.

Should I remove a storm-damaged tree immediately or wait?

It depends on the risk level. A tree that is actively hazardous — leaning onto a structure, root plate fully lifted, large hanging limbs over occupied areas — should be addressed immediately regardless of hour or cost. A damaged but stable tree that is not in a hazard position can be assessed more deliberately within 24–72 hours. See our guide on whether to remove storm-damaged trees immediately or wait for a full decision framework.

What Homeowners Can Do vs. What Requires a Certified Arborist

This checklist covers two parallel tracks. Know which tasks are within a homeowner’s scope and which require a professional with the right training and equipment.

To verify ISA certification for any arborist you are considering, use the official lookup at treesaregood.org/findanarborist. Austin tree companies are not required by law to employ certified arborists. The ISA credential requires examination, ongoing continuing education, and adherence to professional standards. It is the baseline competency indicator for tree risk assessment.

Frequently Asked Questions: Storm Season Tree Preparation in Austin

How often should trees be trimmed to stay storm-ready?

Most mature trees in Austin benefit from a structural assessment and targeted pruning on a two to three year cycle, not annually. Annual pruning of healthy mature trees removes more growth than the tree needs to shed and can produce excessive stress response. Fast-growing species — pecans, Arizona ash — and trees near structures may warrant more frequent attention. The detailed answer depends on species, age, canopy condition, and proximity to targets. See our guide on how often trees should be trimmed for full species-specific guidance.

Can trimming trees actually prevent storm damage?

Yes — within defined limits. Tree trimming can meaningfully reduce storm damage risk by removing deadwood projectiles, reducing wind resistance through crown thinning, and eliminating structurally weak branch attachments before they fail. Trimming cannot prevent all storm damage — root system failures, soil-level structural failures, and extreme wind events above a tree’s design tolerance are not remedied by pruning alone. Trimming is one component of a complete storm preparation program, not a standalone solution.

What are the signs that a tree is dying and may not survive a storm?

Key indicators include extensive crown dieback (50% or more of the canopy), fungal conks at the base, a recent and unexplained lean change, loss of bark over large trunk sections, and failure to leaf out normally in spring. See our guide on signs a tree is dying and cannot be saved for a complete diagnostic checklist. Note that many symptoms of decline are reversible with intervention — a dying appearance does not automatically mean removal is required.

Is cheap tree service worth the risk when preparing for storm season?

No. A tree company that performs incorrect pruning — topping, lion’s tailing, or improper cuts that leave large stubs — leaves your trees structurally weaker than before the work was done. Incorrect cabling installation can fail during the storm it was meant to prevent. The cost of incorrect pre-storm tree work is not recoverable. Read more on whether cheap tree service is worth the risk before making hiring decisions.

What should I do about overgrown trees near my house before storm season?

Overgrown canopy near structures is a structural clearance priority. Branches in contact with or overhanging a roofline need clearance pruning to at least 10 feet of separation. The concern is not just branch contact during the storm — it is the pathway that canopy contact creates for ongoing moisture damage and insect access. Overgrown trees near your house carry compounding safety risks that go beyond storm season.

Summary: Your Storm Season Tree Preparation Checklist

• Map your trees against their failure zones and identify target structures in each zone
• Assess each tree by species and assign a risk priority tier before inspecting branches
• Conduct root zone assessment: look for soil heaving, severed roots, and soil moisture level
• Inspect root flare for burial, basal decay, and girdling roots
• Assess trunk for cracks, cankers, and lean changes
• Assess crown for deadwood, live crown ratio, and branch attachment quality
• Remove all deadwood from Cedar Elms and other high-deadwood-accumulation species
• Address co-dominant stems with included bark — cabling or selective removal
• Complete crown thinning (max 15–20%) using proper pruning-to-union technique
• Achieve 10-foot clearance from rooflines and structures
• Complete all oak pruning before February 1 to stay within the Oak Wilt safe window
• Perform deep root watering 2–3 weeks before the spring storm window if soils are dry
• Apply 3–4 inches of organic mulch to root zones, six inches clear of trunk
• Photograph all significant trees and store documentation in cloud storage
• Retain any arborist assessment reports on file
• Know the post-storm response protocol before you need it

Schedule Your Pre-Storm Tree Assessment

Austin Tree Services TX employs ISA Certified Arborists on all structural assessments and storm preparation consultations. If you have a tree you’re uncertain about before storm season — one with visible decay, a suspect lean, co-dominant stems, or a canopy positioned over your home — call us for a risk assessment.

We serve Travis County, Williamson County, and the surrounding Hill Country communities. We will tell you honestly what we see — including when a tree needs nothing at all.

(512) 729-9018 — Contact Austin Tree Services TX