How to Inspect Trees After Severe Weather

Most of the damage a storm does to a tree is invisible for the first 24 hours. The trunk is still upright. The canopy still has leaves. The yard is messy but nothing looks critical. And then, three days later — or three weeks later — the tree comes down on its own, without warning, in perfectly calm weather.

This is the pattern arborists see repeatedly after severe weather events in Central Texas. The falling itself rarely happens during the storm. The storm just creates the conditions for it. A crack forms under wind load. A root ball loses its grip in saturated limestone-heavy soil. A previously hidden cavity opens up under the mechanical stress of 60 mph gusts. What looked fine was already compromised, and without a proper inspection, no one knew.

This guide is designed to close that knowledge gap. Not with a surface-level checklist, but with a real, structured understanding of what severe weather actually does to trees, what the damage looks like at each zone of the tree, how different storm types leave different signatures, and how to reason about what you find — not just catalog it.

Austin’s weather creates a specific and sometimes brutal combination of stress events: ice storms that load branches beyond their yield point, spring derechos with straight-line winds exceeding 70 mph, summer hailstorms that wound bark, and sudden saturating rains after long drought periods that destabilize root systems that had adapted to dry, cracked clay. Understanding those local conditions is part of understanding what you’re inspecting for.

What Severe Weather Actually Does to Trees: The Mechanics

Before you can inspect for damage, you need to understand the forces involved — because different storm types create different failure modes, and those failure modes leave different evidence.

Wind loading works by applying horizontal force across the canopy, which creates a lever effect at the base. The longer the lever arm (a taller tree with a dense canopy), the greater the stress at the root-trunk junction. This is why large, full-canopied trees near the end of their growth cycle are disproportionately vulnerable. Under sufficient wind load, three failure types occur: windsnap (the trunk or a major branch breaks mid-span), windthrow (the root system loses its grip and the whole tree tips over), and branch failure at a weak union. Each leaves different physical evidence.

Ice loading is more mechanically straightforward — it adds pure weight to branches without the compensating flexibility that wind sometimes allows. A modest ice storm can add hundreds of pounds to the canopy of a medium-sized live oak or cedar elm. Branches fail in compression, which means the breaks tend to be clean and downward rather than the spiral fractures sometimes seen in wind damage. After ice events in Austin — which happen with some regularity even though the city doesn’t often prepare for them — you’ll often see scaffold limbs (the large structural branches off the main trunk) broken straight down, while the trunk itself may be undamaged.

Saturating rainfall changes the mechanical properties of the soil. Austin’s black clay soils (known locally as Houston Black or Austin Clay) shrink and crack severely during drought and then expand and become almost liquid during heavy rain. A tree whose root system has adapted to the cracked, dry state can find itself in destabilized soil very quickly when a major rain event follows a dry period. The roots haven’t failed — the soil holding them has effectively changed state. This is why windthrow events often happen in the 12–48 hours after a storm rather than during it.

Lightning strikes are categorically different from mechanical damage. A lightning strike vaporizes the water inside the wood cells it passes through. Depending on the strike path, this creates either an external scar (stripped bark in a vertical line down one or more sides) or an internal explosion that shatters the heartwood while leaving the outer bark deceptively intact. A tree that has taken a significant internal lightning strike may show almost no external damage for weeks while its internal structure is fundamentally compromised.

Hail wounds bark. The cambium layer — the thin layer of actively dividing cells just beneath the bark that is responsible for girth growth and, critically, for transporting sugars downward — is vulnerable to repeated impact. In a severe hail event, bark wounding can be extensive enough to disrupt the tree’s nutrient transport system and create dozens of entry points for decay fungi. The damage isn’t always immediately visible, but over the months following a hail storm, you may see crown dieback, unusual leaf drop, or early fall coloring in stressed areas.

How Austin’s Common Tree Species Respond Differently

Species identity matters enormously in a post-storm inspection. Trees handle stress differently depending on their wood properties, root architecture, branch attachment patterns, and growth habits. Knowing what you’re dealing with changes what you look for.

Live oak (Quercus fusiformis) is Austin’s most common large tree and one of its most storm-resilient, but resilient doesn’t mean invulnerable. Live oak’s primary vulnerability is branch attachment angle. Where branches form tight, acute angles with the trunk — often seen in older specimens with co-dominant stems — bark is included between them rather than forming a strong collar. These “included bark” attachments look fine visually but are structurally weak: two stems pressing together with bark between them rather than wood, creating a crack zone that is already partially failed before the storm hits. After a major wind event, look for any co-dominant stems in your live oaks and inspect the union closely for fresh cracking.

Cedar elm (Ulmus crassifolia) is a common mid-size native that tends toward brittle wood in older specimens. The branch structure is often complex and layered, and dead wood accumulates in the interior canopy over time. Dead interior branches become projectiles in a storm and, more concerning, their weight distribution shifts as they die, creating asymmetric loading. Cedar elms after a storm require particular attention to interior dead branch accumulation as well as the outer scaffold structure. Regular trimming of native Texas trees like cedar elm is specifically important before storm seasons precisely because of this tendency.

Ashe juniper (Juniperus ashei), commonly called “cedar” in Austin despite not being a true cedar, has a shallow, wide root system that makes it particularly susceptible to windthrow after saturating rain. Its root plates are relatively thin, and in clay soils that have shifted from dry-cracked to saturated, you’ll see juniper windthrow even after moderate wind events. After storms, check the base of large junipers for soil movement and lean.

Pecan (Carya illinoinensis), the state tree of Texas, has notably brittle wood relative to its size. Scaffold limbs in older pecans are frequently lost in ice storms and strong thunderstorms. The good news is that pecans are prolific compartmentalizers — they’re relatively effective at sealing wound sites — but a large scaffold wound represents significant surface area that needs monitoring for decay entry.

Mexican sycamore and bald cypress are both large, water-loving species common near Austin’s creek corridors and lakefronts. Both are susceptible to streambank destabilization during flood events, and after major flooding, the root zone of any large sycamore or cypress near a creek or drainage should be evaluated for soil erosion and bank undercutting that may not be visible from the lawn.

The Right Inspection Timeline: Why “After the Storm” Is Three Separate Events

A post-storm tree inspection isn’t a single event. The biology and physics of storm damage mean that different types of problems become visible — or become critical — at different points in time. Treating it as a single walk-around check the morning after a storm will cause you to miss a significant portion of what matters.

Immediate assessment (within 2–4 hours, when safe): This is a safety scan, not a detailed inspection. You are looking for anything that creates an immediate hazard to people or structures: hanging limbs over occupied areas, trees on power lines, trees that have partially fallen and are resting on something, or large branches that are broken and held only by bark. You are not climbing anything, and you are not getting within falling distance of any compromised limb or leaning trunk. The purpose is hazard identification, not diagnosis.

Structural assessment (24–72 hours after the event): This is when detailed inspection becomes both safe and productive. The immediate safety hazards have been addressed. The soil has begun to resettle. Cracks that opened under load often become more visible as the wood dries slightly. Trees that are beginning to lean show it more clearly than in the immediate aftermath when everything is still wet and covered in debris. This is the appropriate time for the systematic, zone-by-zone inspection described below. It’s also the right time to document damage for any insurance-related purposes.

Follow-up monitoring (2–6 weeks post-storm): Some of the most important post-storm signals don’t appear until the tree’s physiology has had time to respond. Leaf wilting, premature autumn coloration in affected branches, or failure to leaf out normally in the following spring are all signs of internal damage that won’t be obvious at day one or day three. Trees that took lightning strikes may look unchanged for weeks before the physiological damage becomes visible in the canopy. Mark any trees of concern from your 72-hour inspection and revisit them. Note any changes. If a tree that was borderline starts showing canopy decline 3–4 weeks post-storm, that changes the risk calculus significantly.

Ground Safety Before You Inspect Anything

This section deserves more than a brief mention, because the failure mode here is consistent: homeowners get complacent, the hazards from a fresh storm aren’t treated with the same respect as a construction site, and people get hurt by problems they could clearly see but misjudged the risk of.

Any tree in contact with utility wires is a non-starter for homeowner inspection. This includes situations where a branch is touching a low-voltage line as much as situations where a tree has taken down a transmission line. If there is contact with any wire, assume it is live, assume the ground around it may be energized, and stay back until the utility company has cleared the hazard. Call Austin Energy or your local utility provider. Do not approach, do not attempt to move the branch, and do not drive over downed lines if they are blocking a road.

Suspended or “hung up” limbs — branches that broke but are being held by other branches rather than on the ground — are among the most dangerous conditions in a post-storm yard. They look stable. They often stay in place for hours or days before something shifts and they drop. The danger zone beneath a hung-up limb is not just directly beneath it; a limb falling at an angle can travel a significant horizontal distance. Hanging tree limbs are a major safety hazard that warrant professional removal rather than waiting it out.

Avoid working or standing beneath any tree that has a significant lean, visible root heave, or disturbed soil around the base. The root system may still be partially engaged, or it may be at the point of releasing entirely — there is often no way to tell from observation, and the failure when it comes is fast. Give these trees a wide berth until they have been assessed.

The Complete Zone-by-Zone Inspection

A rigorous post-storm tree inspection moves systematically through five zones of the tree, each with specific indicators and specific failure modes to look for. Do this from multiple angles and in good daylight. Binoculars help considerably for canopy assessment on large trees.

Zone 1: Soil and Root Collar

Start on the ground, at the base of the tree, and work outward to the drip line. The soil tells you a great deal about what happened to the root system during the storm.

Look for soil heave: a raised or cracked ridge of soil, typically crescent-shaped, appearing on the windward side of the tree (the side facing the prevailing storm wind). This is the surface expression of root plate movement — the root system beginning to lose its grip. Even a modest heave of an inch or two indicates that the anchor root system has been stressed and may have experienced underground fracturing. A tree with visible soil heave should be treated as unstable until assessed.

Check the root collar — the area where the trunk transitions into the root system at ground level. After a storm, look for fresh cracking in the bark at this transition zone, any separation between the bark and the wood beneath it (grasping the bark and applying slight lateral pressure can reveal instability that isn’t visible from a distance), or any new soil exposure on one side with increased burial on the other. Both indicate the tree has moved.

Exposed surface roots that previously were partially covered, particularly if they show fresh breaks or tearing, indicate root plate movement. Root architecture is largely a mirror of crown architecture: a tree with a wide, spreading crown has a corresponding wide, flat root system. Disturbance to that system in an asymmetric way is a stability concern.

Also check for rot at the base of the trunk. Storm stress accelerates decay in trees that already have fungal issues, and basal decay is one of the most serious structural problems a tree can have. Soft, discolored, or punky wood at the trunk base, mushroom fruiting bodies, or any zone where you can push a screwdriver into the wood with little resistance are all serious findings.

Zone 2: The Lower Trunk

The trunk from the ground to the first major branch represents the primary load-bearing column of the tree. Damage here is structural damage in the most direct sense.

Look for cracks. Not all cracks are equal, and this is a critical distinction the original article on this page completely overlooked. There are broadly two categories:

Radial cracks run toward the center of the tree — you are looking at the end grain, so to speak, and the crack is deepening into the wood. These represent separation of wood fibers along the grain and are more structurally serious. A radial crack at the base of the trunk that extends several inches inward has compromised the trunk’s ability to resist the bending moment of wind load.

Longitudinal cracks run vertically along the trunk surface. A fresh longitudinal crack after a storm — particularly one with clean, bright wood edges, which indicates it opened recently rather than being an old wound — is a significant finding. Long splits running several feet up the trunk indicate that the wood has been stressed beyond its elastic limit at some point during the storm.

Inspect the bark for any areas that feel hollow when you knock on them lightly with a knuckle. A hollow sound suggests a cavity behind the bark — an area where internal decay has progressed while the outer wood shell remained intact. This is one of the most dangerous conditions a standing tree can have, because the structural cross-section of the trunk is much smaller than the outer diameter suggests. Understanding what a cracked tree trunk actually means requires distinguishing between these types — they have completely different risk implications.

Check for any fresh areas of bark loss — strips of bark torn away by the storm. Beyond the cosmetic issue, bark loss exposes the cambium to desiccation, insect colonization, and fungal entry. Large areas of fresh bark loss on the lower trunk should be noted, as they’ll require monitoring for secondary infection even if the structural integrity appears sound.

Zone 3: Branch Unions and Scaffold Limbs

The branch unions — the points where major limbs attach to the trunk or to each other — are where mechanical failure most commonly initiates. This zone requires careful visual attention from multiple angles.

As mentioned in the species section above, look for included bark at major branch unions. This is identifiable by the presence of a visible “seam” or ridge of bark pressed between two stems rather than a flared, collar-like attachment. In a healthy branch union, bark is pushed out and forms a collar; in an included bark union, bark is trapped inside and there is often a visible groove or split. Any included bark union that shows signs of fresh opening, discoloration, or cracking represents a structural failure in progress.

Examine the bases of major scaffold limbs for any cracking, particularly in the upper surface of the attachment. Wind load creates a complex stress pattern at branch attachments: the upper surface experiences tension (being pulled apart) while the lower surface experiences compression. Cracks appearing on the upper surface of a branch union are often the leading edge of a more significant failure.

Look for any branches that are partially broken — still attached but hanging or displaced. These need to be addressed professionally rather than left. A partially attached limb continues to apply mechanical load on the wound site with every breeze, enlarging the damaged area and typically preventing any effective compartmentalization. Whether to remove or attempt to repair a split branch depends on its size and location — a decision best made with professional input.

Zone 4: The Mid-Trunk and Co-Dominant Stems

Many of Austin’s large trees — particularly live oaks — develop co-dominant stems: two or more leaders of roughly equal diameter growing from the same point. This is different from a standard branch union in its structural implications. Where a branch union has a clear dominant stem and a subordinate branch, co-dominant stems compete for dominance, and the union between them is typically the weakest point in the tree’s structure.

After severe weather, co-dominant stem unions should be inspected from below (looking up between the stems) and from the side. Signs of concern include any visible crack or separation at the union, any tilting or displacement of one stem relative to the other, or fresh bark cracking along the seam line between them. A co-dominant stem union that shows distress post-storm is a candidate for supplemental support through cabling and bracing, which can redistribute load and prevent catastrophic splitting while the tree continues to provide shade and value.

Also examine the full visible trunk surface for lightning scar evidence: a vertical strip of missing or severely damaged bark, usually running fairly straight down one face of the tree, sometimes with a spiral component following the wood grain. Fresh lightning scars will have bright wood at the center. Not every lightning strike produces an obvious scar — some pass through the tree’s water conduction tissue internally and leave the outer bark largely intact while causing severe internal damage.

Zone 5: Canopy Assessment

The canopy tells you partly about immediate mechanical damage (broken branches, stripped foliage) and partly about the tree’s physiological condition — which won’t fully emerge until days or weeks after the storm. Both matter.

From the ground, using binoculars if available, work through the canopy quadrant by quadrant. Look for breaks in major limbs, branches with unusual angles or droop that wasn’t present before, stripped bark on upper branches (common after ice storms), and any hung-up debris from neighboring trees. Note the overall density and balance of the canopy: a suddenly one-sided or thinned canopy that wasn’t that way before indicates major structural loss that may not have landed near the tree.

Check for dead sections — areas of the canopy where leaves are absent or clearly brown and dead while surrounding areas are still green and healthy. Post-storm dieback can be caused by branch damage, root injury, or vascular disruption at any point in the tree’s transport system. A small dead section in the canopy may indicate a localized branch problem; a larger or diffuse pattern of dieback across the canopy often points to root or trunk-level damage.

Note any areas where previous pruning cuts or old wound sites are visible in the upper canopy. These are natural points of entry for secondary infection and often show accelerated decay under the stress of severe weather. Large old pruning wounds that show dark staining, fungal growth, or hollow sounds when branches are knocked against them should be flagged.

How to Read Lean After a Storm

Lean is one of the most important and most commonly misread findings in a post-storm inspection. Not all lean is equal, and the difference between a tree with a pre-existing, long-established lean and a tree that developed lean during the storm represents a completely different risk level.

An established lean — a tree that has grown at an angle over years — is generally safe if the tree is healthy and hasn’t shown acceleration. The tree’s reaction wood (wood grown in response to gravitational stress over time) has adapted to support the angle. You can often identify established lean by checking the root flare: the tree’s root collar will be flared roughly symmetrically if it has grown in that lean gradually, because the root system will have adapted accordingly.

A new lean — a tree that moved during the storm — is a fundamentally different situation. Evidence of new lean includes: fresh soil heave on the windward side, a root collar that appears to have shifted (one side more exposed than the other, or asymmetric burial), freshly exposed roots, or witness evidence from neighbors or security cameras. A suddenly leaning tree is a serious hazard that requires professional assessment, not just monitoring.

A useful heuristic: if a tree is leaning toward a structure, vehicle, or high-traffic area and you cannot confidently determine that the lean is long-established, treat it as new until proven otherwise. The cost of that conservative assumption is an unnecessary professional consultation. The cost of the alternative assumption going wrong can be catastrophic.

Documenting What You Find: The Insurance Dimension

Documentation is an underemphasized part of post-storm tree inspection, and for homeowners with significant tree damage, it can directly affect claim outcomes.

Photograph all damage before anything is touched or moved. This means debris patterns, branch landing zones, soil disturbance, cracks, bark loss — everything. Photograph from multiple angles and distances. Include some photos that provide spatial context (showing the tree’s proximity to the house, for instance) as well as close-up detail shots. Date/timestamp the photos if your camera or phone allows it.

Keep notes of when damage was discovered, what the storm conditions were (wind speed reports from the nearest weather station, hail size if reported), and what, if any, prior professional tree care the tree had received. If you have previous arborist assessment reports for the affected trees, those documents can be valuable in demonstrating the tree’s prior condition relative to the storm damage.

For trees that require emergency removal, professional documentation from the tree service about the condition of the tree and the reason for emergency action supports the case that the cost was necessary and storm-related.

What Storm Damage Cannot Be Addressed by Waiting

One of the most common mistakes after a severe storm is delay. Damage that seems stable — and genuinely may be stable on day one — often is not stable a week later. Understanding which damage types are actively worsening over time helps prioritize what can wait and what cannot.

Partially broken limbs should never be left. Every day they remain, they continue to load the wound site, the damaged wood dries and splits further, and the dead tissue becomes an entry point for insects. Bark beetles and wood borers, which are opportunistic, are attracted to the volatile compounds released by fresh wound sites and will colonize dead and dying wood within days to weeks of a storm. What starts as a clean structural failure becomes, if left, a disease and infestation problem as well.

Trees showing fresh root heave or new lean should not be left for a “scheduled” arborist visit if they are within falling distance of any occupied structure or space. Root system instability can progress quickly, particularly if additional rain is forecast. The saturated soil conditions that contributed to the initial movement will continue to allow movement if they persist.

Trees showing visible stress symptoms — wilting, early leaf drop, branch dieback — in the weeks following a storm should receive a professional assessment rather than watchful waiting. These symptoms are the tree’s response to damage it has already sustained. Early intervention, whether through deep-root fertilization, soil aeration, or targeted pruning, gives the tree its best chance of recovery. Arborists assess tree health with a combination of visual evaluation, resistograph testing (drilling a tiny probe to measure wood density), and, in some cases, aerial inspection that gives access to the canopy structure a ground inspection cannot provide.

The Repair vs. Remove Decision Framework

The most consequential decision that follows a storm inspection is whether a damaged tree can be retained with corrective work or needs to be removed. This decision combines arboricultural judgment with risk management, and it’s worth understanding the framework even if the final call belongs to a professional.

The ISA (International Society of Arboriculture) risk assessment framework considers three compounding factors: the likelihood that a failure will occur, the likelihood that it will hit a target (a person, structure, or vehicle), and the consequences if it does. A tree with moderate structural damage but growing in an open field with nothing in its fall zone presents far lower risk than a tree with the same damage growing over a driveway where children play. Risk is not just about tree condition — it’s always a function of condition plus target exposure.

From a condition standpoint, some findings are almost always removal indicators: more than 50% of the circumference of the trunk without bark, visible through-cracks in the trunk, severe root plate movement on a large tree, or lightning strikes that have split the tree into two or more pieces. Others — a broken scaffold limb, canopy damage, bark wounding — are typically repairable with professional pruning and corrective care, provided the trunk and root system are sound.

Co-dominant stem failures are a middle category where cabling and bracing systems can provide a meaningful structural supplement, buying the tree years of additional safe life. This is particularly relevant for mature specimen trees that have significant aesthetic or ecological value. A single cable installation by a qualified arborist is dramatically less expensive than removal and replanting, and for a healthy tree with a single structural weakness, it is often the right call.

When a tree does need to come down, understanding what makes tree removal necessary helps set realistic expectations about what professional removal involves — particularly for large trees near structures, which require methodical, sectional takedown rather than simple felling. Large tree removal is genuinely more complex than it appears, and the difference in approach between a 40-foot tree in an open yard and a 70-foot live oak 15 feet from a house is substantial.

What You Can Do Before the Next Storm

Post-storm inspection reveals the tree’s weaknesses after stress has already been applied. Pre-storm preparation is the more valuable intervention — identifying and addressing those weaknesses before they’re tested.

Regular structural pruning is the single most effective preventive measure. Dead wood removal eliminates potential projectiles and reduces unnecessary weight. Crown cleaning improves wind passage through the canopy, reducing sail effect. Correcting co-dominant stems while they’re small (removing or subordinating one leader before the union develops into a full included bark situation) prevents the structural time bomb that mature co-dominant unions represent. Properly done trimming genuinely does reduce storm damage risk — not because it makes trees smaller, but because it removes structural vulnerabilities.

Avoid “tree topping” — the practice of removing the entire upper crown and cutting major stems to stubs. Despite being marketed in some places as a storm safety measure, topping creates far more storm risk than it removes. The resulting water sprouts that regrow from topping cuts are weakly attached, fast-growing, and structurally inferior to normal branch wood. A topped tree is typically more susceptible to storm damage within a few years, not less.

Consider professional arborist assessment before storm season — roughly March through May in Central Texas for severe thunderstorm and tornado risk, with a secondary assessment window before winter weather arrives. A professional arborist evaluation can identify structural problems, internal decay, root issues, and high-risk branch unions that a homeowner inspection will miss. This is especially valuable for large, mature trees near structures, where the consequence of failure is highest.

The storm season preparation checklist covers additional steps you can take in the weeks before severe weather season to give your trees the best structural position going in.

A Note on Tree Stress Accumulation

One concept that is rarely discussed in homeowner-facing tree content but is fundamental to understanding post-storm risk is the accumulation of stress events. Trees don’t experience each storm, drought, or freeze in isolation. They carry the effects of prior events forward.

A live oak that survived a significant drought in 2022 may have reduced its root system extent as a drought adaptation. That same tree, entering a major wind event in a wet spring, now has a smaller root system than its above-ground structure requires. A cedar elm that took significant ice damage in a winter storm and lost a major scaffold limb hasn’t fully compartmentalized that wound two years later — the wound wood is still present, and the decay process that started then is still progressing. A pecan that dealt with oak wilt pressure or hypoxylon canker in the years before a storm has compromised vascular tissue that the storm may be enough to tip into full decline.

When you inspect a tree after severe weather, you are assessing the current state of a biological system that has a history. That history matters. If you know your trees have been through significant prior stress events, weight your post-storm findings accordingly. Some trees are beyond recovery not because of what the most recent storm did, but because of what it added to an already-stressed system.

Quick Reference: What Each Finding Means

What You ObserveWhat It May IndicateUrgency Level
Soil heave on windward sideRoot plate movement, potential windthrow in progressHigh — professional assessment needed
New lean toward structureRoot system failure or major structural shiftHigh — do not wait
Vertical lightning scarExternal strike; possible internal damage; future decline riskMedium-High — inspect for internal damage
Deep radial trunk crackStructural fiber separation; reduced load capacityHigh if near structure
Hollow sound when knocking trunkInternal cavity or decay columnMedium-High — professional evaluation
Included bark union showing fresh crackCo-dominant stem beginning to splitHigh — cabling candidate or removal
Hung-up limb in canopySuspended weight; unpredictable dropHigh — do not stand beneath
Partially broken scaffold limbMechanical failure in progress; bark hinge holdingMedium-High — professional removal
Basal rot signs (soft wood, mushrooms)Advanced decay at root collar — structural compromiseHigh — full assessment required
Canopy dieback 2–4 weeks post-stormRoot damage, vascular disruption, or secondary infectionMedium — monitor and consult
Bark wound (hail, abrasion)Cambium damage; secondary infection entry pointLow-Medium — document and monitor
Broken small branches, no trunk involvementNormal storm pruning; typically minorLow — clean up, monitor for disease

When to Call an Arborist After a Storm

The boundary between homeowner inspection and professional assessment is relatively straightforward: you inspect to identify and document. Professionals assess, diagnose, and act.

Call a professional arborist promptly when any of the following are true: a tree has developed new lean toward a structure or occupied area, there is visible soil heave or root disturbance at the base, a major limb (anything larger than about 4 inches in diameter) is partially broken, a tree has contact with utility wires, you suspect internal damage from a lightning strike, or the tree has obvious trunk damage such as deep cracks, large bark loss, or signs of basal decay. These are not situations where a few more days of observation provides useful information — they are conditions that call for professional involvement now.

You should also involve a professional for trees that you cannot properly assess due to their size or canopy height. A ground inspection of a 60-foot live oak gives you good information about the lower 15 feet. What’s happening in the upper crown requires either binoculars and experience or aerial access. For large, high-value trees near homes and structures, a post-storm aerial inspection by a qualified arborist — using either climbing gear or a bucket truck — provides a level of assurance that no ground inspection can match.

Austin Tree Services Tx provides post-storm tree inspections, emergency hazard removal, structural pruning, and cabling and bracing throughout Austin and the surrounding areas including Round Rock, Cedar Park, Lakeway, Georgetown, and Bee Cave. If you have trees that were exposed to a recent storm and you need a professional assessment, call (512) 729-9018.

Author

  • I’m David Miller, an arborist and the owner of Austin Tree Services Tx. I’ve spent years working hands-on with trees—removing hazardous ones, grinding stubborn stumps, and helping homeowners keep their landscapes safe and looking their best.

    In this blog, I share what I’ve learned in the field—the kind of practical, no-nonsense advice you only get by getting your hands dirty. Whether you’re dealing with a risky tree or just planning ahead, I aim to give you straight answers you can rely on.

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